Nigeria trip report



The most populous country in Africa, Nigeria is a vast mosaic of traditions, languages, and diversity among its 250 ethnic groups. Initially ruled by various indigenous kingdoms, including the Hausa, Oyo & Benin Empires, Nigeria experienced significant changes with the arrival of European colonial powers who established coastal ports for the traffic in slaves destined for the Americas. In the 1800s, Britain became the world's first industrialised nation, so they needed vast quantities of palm oil for use as an industrial lubricant for machinery. As a result, palm oil replaced slaves as the main export of Nigeria.

At first, most of the trade in the oil palm was uncoordinated, with natives selling to those who gave them the best deals. Then the British colonial administrator, George Goldie, formed a company called the Royal Niger Company to control the palm oil trade. Goldie made deals with Nigerian chiefs to control more land. The chiefs were often tricked into unfair contracts. One chief, Jaja, got in trouble for trying to sell palm oil without Goldie's company. He was forced to leave and later died mysteriously. Another chief, King Koko of Nembe, fought against Goldie's company in 1895. He attacked their base, but the British fought back and won. Many Nembe people died, and King Koko was forced to run away and later died. The aftermath of that palm oil war caused public opinion in Britain to turn against the Royal Niger Company, and the government revoked its charter in 1899. As a result the company sold its holdings to the British government for $900k. This was the price Britain paid to acquire Nigeria. Interestingly enough, the company formerly known as the Royal Niger Company still lives on today known as Unilever and is one of the biggest multinationals in the world.

The British Government, moved to consolidate its hold over Nigeria, administered northern and southern Nigeria separately, as northern leaders retained their religion-based administrative structures under an "indirect rule" arrangement with colonial authorities. Western influence and education proceeded more rapidly in the south than in the north, with the social, cultural, and political consequences still evident today. Nigeria gained independence from Britain in 1960, however, the country soon faced challenges related to ethnic tensions, that culminated in a devastating 3 year civil war. Known as the Biafran War, it was a bloody conflict between the Nigerian government and a region called Biafra, which wanted to break away and become its own country. In the end, Biafra lost, and Nigeria stayed as one country.

Following the civil war, reconciliation was rapid and effective, and the country turned to the task of economic development. The oil boom of the 1970s led Nigeria to neglect its strong agricultural and light manufacturing bases in favor of an unhealthy dependence on crude oil. Oil and gas exports account for the bulk of export earnings and over 80% of federal government revenue. New oil wealth and the concurrent decline of other economic sectors fueled massive migration to the cities and led to increasingly widespread poverty, especially in rural areas. A collapse of basic infrastructure and social services since the early 1980s accompanied this trend. Along with the endemic malaise of Nigeria's non-oil sectors, the economy continues to witness massive growth of "informal sector" economic activities.

The best way to immerse yourself in the traditions of the many peoples and cultures that dwell in Nigeria is to participate in the many traditional ceremonies that criss-cross the country. From the Calabar Carnival in the Igbo land, to the Fishermen’s Festival of Argungu, ancient Kingdom of Kebbi, passing through the annual Yorouba ceremony of Osun in Osogbo, and the privilege, if the security situation permits, of being received by the Emir of the Kingdom of Kano, in a colourful whirlwind of equestrian parades and devotion to the Muslim spiritual leader, who exercises from his 600-year-old palace, amidst the epic echoes of ancient trans-Saharan caravans.

 

Ilorin

Ilorin, the capital of Kwara State, holds a unique place in Nigeria's history as a major center of Islamic learning, attracting students and scholars from across Nigeria and beyond. The city is home to several prestigious Islamic institutions, including the Ilorin Central Mosque and the University of Ilorin, which contribute to its reputation as a center of academic excellence. Ilorin's vibrant cultural scene is also evident in its traditional festivals, such as the Sallah celebrations and the Durbar festival, which showcase the city's rich cultural heritage and traditions.


 

Ilorin Akure

The road from Ilorin to Akure is dotted with numerous 'checkpoints' of random officers who will claim that the weather is very hot and they need water, that's your signal to give them a little bribe so keep a bunch of small notes.


 

Akure / Idanre Hills

Akure, the capital of Ondo State, traces its origins to the ancient Owo Kingdom and has been inhabited by various ethnic groups, including the Yoruba, the Igbo, and the Edo. Akure's history is intertwined with the rise and fall of powerful kingdoms, such as the Oyo Empire and the Benin Empire. Today, Akure is recognized for its vibrant markets, traditional festivals, and architectural landmarks, such as the Oba's Palace and the Deji's Palace. The nearby Idanre Hills is a beautiful natural attraction, known for its scenic beauty, with lush greenery and stunning views. IdThese ancient hills have a storied past, with evidence suggesting human habitation dating back hundreds of years. Idanre Hills were once a thriving community, with settlements, shrines, and other structures dotting their slopes. They served as a place of refuge and defense for the indigenous people during times of conflict, with pathways and steps carved into the rock for easier access. The hills are also significant in Yoruba mythology and folklore, with tales of spirits and deities associated with various landmarks. Today, visitors can explore these historic sites, including the famous Owa's Palace and the Agboogun footprint.


 

Akure Lagos

The road from Akure to Lagos can get very muddy when it rains. We had to hire a military officer to come with us, he sat in the front and was carrying an AK47. This was for both safety and to avoid having to pay bribes along the way.


 

Lagos

Lagos, Nigeria's largest megalopolis and economic powerhouse, is a mosaic of worlds and opposing economic realities. Lagos is the principal producer of oil, extracted from the Niger Delta, which led to rapid urbanization and the emergence of a diverse population comprising indigenous peoples, migrants, and settlers from across West Africa and beyond. Dubbed the Silicon Valley of Africa, but also supposedly the home of cybercrime, Lagos is a striking example of global overpopulation against the backdrop of a galloping all-African economy, home to the flourishing Nollywood film industry and Naija Afrobeat music. It is a city of millionaire entrepreneurs and some of the poorest slums on the continent, such as the village of Makoko on stilts, which has made its traditional isolation as a fishing community its only weapon of redemption in the face of poverty. Lagos is grappling with issues such as traffic congestion, inadequate public services, and environmental degradation, as they seek to balance economic growth with sustainable development.


 

Lagos Ilorin

The road from Lagos to Ilorin is one of the most notorious ones for traffic jams and accidents. I saw an accident every 30 minutes during the journey. You will often notice gas pumps at petrol stations having chains on them, apparently it's not uncommon for gas pumps to get stolen!


 

Zuma rock

Standing at about 300 meters above the ground, Zuma Rock is a natural monolith near the capital city of Abuja. The rock was found in the 15th century by the Zuba people, who called it zumwa, which could translate to "a place of guinea fowls", due to their abundance around the rock. The Zuba people settled around the rock and came to see it as a spiritual guide, making sacrifices to the rock to keep them safe from harm. Because the landmark offered a clear view of the surrounding landscape, it was also used as a defensive position from other invading tribes.


 

Agbokim Waterfalls

Agbokim Waterfalls is a beautiful place in Nigeria where water flows down rocks, making a stunning sight. It's like nature's own water show! People visit to see its beauty and relax by the water.


 

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