When the Spanish landed in 1531, Peru's territory was the nucleus of the highly developed Inca civilization. Centered at Cuzco, the Incan Empire extended over a vast region from northern Ecuador to central Chile. In search of Inca wealth, the Spanish conqueror Francisco Pizarro, who arrived in the territory after the Incas had fought a debilitating civil war, conquered the weakened people. The Spanish captured the Incan capital at Cuzco by 1533, and consolidated their control by 1542. Gold and silver from the Andes enriched the conquerors, and Peru became the principal source of Spanish wealth and power in South America.
Pizarro founded Lima in 1535. The viceroyalty established at Lima in 1542 initially had jurisdiction over all of the Spanish colonies in South America. By the time of the wars of independence (1820-24), Lima had become one of the most distinguished and aristocratic colonial capitals and the chief Spanish stronghold in the Americas (along with Mexico City). Under Spanish rule, the indigenous population were subjected to forced labor and exploitation. The Spanish brought European diseases that devastated the native population, leading to a decline in their numbers. Despite resistance from the indigenous people, Spanish rule remained dominant for centuries.
Jose de San Martin of Argentina and Simon Bolivar of Venezuela led Peru's independence struggle. San Martin proclaimed Peruvian independence from Spain in 1821. Emancipation was completed in December 1824, when Venezuelan Marshall Antonio Jose de Sucre defeated a Spanish army at Ayacucho, ending Spain's rule in South America. Spain subsequently made futile attempts to regain its former colonies, but in 1879 it finally recognized Peru's independence. After independence, Peru and its neighbors engaged in intermittent territorial disputes. In 1998 the governments of Peru, Chile and Ecuador signed historic peace treaties that demarcated the borders. Internally Peru was having troubles too, with a traumatic two-decade conflict - roughly from 1980 to 2000 - between the state and guerrilla groups. Since then, Peru has been experiencing an economic boom. Foreign investors have been keen to get involved in exploiting the country's mineral wealth, sometimes in the face of local resistance. Add to that a growing number of visitors being drawn to Peru's rich and varied heritage which includes the lost city of Machu Picchu, spectacular scenery and vibrant indigenous traditions.
Lima
Lima is a vibrant and culturally rich city. It's a graffiti and alternative art lover's paradise. Miraflores and the bohemian neighbourhoods Barranco and Callao are the main spots, the last two being marginalized neighbourhoods.
Huacachina
Huacachina is South America's only natural desert oasis. Close to the city of Ica, it's located 4 hours south of Lima - give or take a few hours depending on your luck with the bus. Huacachina has the largest sand dunes in South America.
Cusco
Cusco, a city in the Andes, was once capital of the Inca Empire, and is now known for its archaeological remains and Spanish colonial architecture. I flew from Lima to Cusco with Peruvian, the views over the Andes were breathtaking.
In late 1533, the Spanish conquistadors entered the city of Cusco, the heart of the Inca Empire at the time. They were greeted as liberators because they had killed Atahualpa, who had recently been at war with his brother Huascar for control over the Inca Empire. Cusco had supported Huascar. The Spanish sacked the city mercilessly, searching all of homes, temples, and palaces for any gold and silver. All that remains now is Spanish colonial architecture and some Incan wall ruins.
Machu Picchu
High in the Andes, Machu Picchu is the site of an ancient Inca city and one of the most spectacular sets of ruins in the world. As late as 1528, the Inca Empire was a cohesive unit, ruled by one dominant ruler, Huayna Capac. Following his death, two of his many sons, Atahualpa and Huáscar, began to fight over his empire. For four years, a bloody civil war raged over the Empire and in 1532 Atahualpa emerged victorious. It was at this precise moment, when the Empire was in ruins, that the Spanish conquistadors showed up: they were able to defeat the weakened Inca armies and exploit the social rifts that had caused the war in the first place. The Spanish made it their mission to eradicate the Inca culture, luckily the remoteness of Machu Picchu kept it hidden and preserved from the prying conquistadors.
The access point to Machu Picchu is the town of Aguas Calientes. This little town has no road access from any surrounding towns, it's reached by train or on foot.
Rainbow Mountain & Red Valley
Some peaks in the Peruvian Andes are uncommonly colored by the sediment and atmosphere of the area, unique because of its altitude (5000m) - the most marvelous being Vinicunca, also known as Rainbow Mountain or Montaña de Colores. The adjacent Red Valley is equally breathtaking. In the past, it took about six days of hiking to reach Rainbow Mountain. Nowadays, there are plenty of bus tours departing from Cusco to the mountain.
Laguna Humantay
The lagoon of Humantay lies hidden from view practically until you're at the water's edge. Surrounded by snowy peaks, the lagoon has a special turquoise color that is mystifying. The lagoon has been visited by shamans and tourists from all over the world. They often leave offerings to the Pachamama, a deity that represents mother Earth in the Inca culture. You can see the numerous offerings made through the placement of stone mounds that have been left around the lake.
Sacred Valley
Tucked under the tawny skirts of formidable foothills, the El Valle Sagrado (the Sacred Valley), is about 15km north of Cuzco as the condor flies, via a narrow road of hairpin turns. This fetching corner of the Andes is packed with Inca sites, colonial towns and isolated weaving villages.
Salinas de Maras
This canyon is filled with geometric salt pools that have been being harvested since the Incan empire.
Puno
Puno is a small city located on the shore of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake situated at about 3,830m above sea level. Puno is the gateway to launch a visit out to the famous Floating Reed Islands of the Uros people. These are incredible but super-touristy man-made islands in the middle of the lake, made entirely of Totora reed, on which the Uros people have managed to forge a subsistent lifestyle for centuries. I do not have fond memories of Puno as I got food poisoning shortly after eating a local grilled fish.
